Friday, July 21, 2017

L'Été en Ville, Paris Plage

L'Été en ville...Summer in the city
You don't need to leave town
Just come to Paris Plage
It was jumping last Sunday
Yet sooo relaxed.
There was a lot of jitterbugging going on for sure even in the heat
To this hot hot band
Everyone was havin' a good time
Drinking lots of apéro classiques
The bars were busy
SUMMER TIME in Paris!!
There were oysters too like at the beach
Or you could cool off walking by the misters..
Or on the grass by the Seine.
I cooled off with a pistache, framboise gelato comme d'habitude.
Thank you for reading Parisbreakfast.  If you'd like to receive Parisbreakfast letters, maps and watercolors in your mailbox, stop by my shop.
Happy Summer PBers where ever you are!

Sunday, July 16, 2017

Shopping in Paris' Epiceries - the July map

Food shopping in Paris is one of the obvious joys when you visit. Who doesn't have a favorite thing they long for when away and stock up on insanely while here?
La Grand Epicerie Paris in the 7th at 38, rue de Sevres would be at the top of any shopping list, especially good for people watching on Saturdays. This is where the chic love to shop.
For some unknown reason La Grand Epicerie recently decided to start their own house brand. Part of the fun was always the plethora of obscure products on offer. They are still there but less so.
For sure their chic et pas cher shopping bags (15€) have always been worth collecting. They change designs monthly.
You may think you didn't come all the way to Paris to shop at British chain, Marks and Spencer's. You would be wrong. They are all over Paris and much loved. I like the one next to the Apple store 7, rue Mabillion in the 6th arrondissement.
The French have embraced M & S with devotion. I read somewhere more BLTs are sold in France daily than anyhere else. I am a big dévotée. I take it home and grill it open-faced. Also terrific are their prepared Indian dishes and correctly spicy. Marks and Spencer's may be the only place in town with marked-down labels (always yellow). I captured a haul of BLTs late on a Sunday eve for ,75 centimes each. Granted I had no idea what to do with 4 BLTs but its the thought that counts.
M&S is another good chic people watching place.
FYI bet you didn't know cheese danishes do not exist in Paris. Except for these British twists made with cheddar. Très delish IMHO.
Grand Epicerie's big competition is probably Galeries Lafayette 'La Maison Le Gourmet' on 35, blvd Haussmann in the 9th. If you're mad for French pastry and chocolates this is the one-stop shop to hit. All the top marks under one roof: Pierre Hermé (macarons only), Alain Ducasse chocolates, Satoharu Aoki, Jean-Paul Hevin, Christophe Adams l'Eclaire du genie, patisseries Dalloyau and Benoit Castel.
Instant gratification aplenty here.
A smaller specialist eoicerie for all things Breton is Le comptoir de Breizh,109, rue Veille du Temple
The same products we found in St. Malo can be found here..cidres, Bordier butter, salted caramels.
They've recently created a new line, La Maison du Sarrasin, all from buckwheat including very tasty cookies, sesame crackers and even a tea of sorts.
I'm a big fan of Greek gourmet store, Mavrommatis near rue Mouffetard.
Their 1 kilo buckets of out-of-this-world made-in-France yogurt from Greek cows is heavenly, if you're into yogurt. 5€ and so worth it.
Not at all chic but still fab is warehouse-sized Tang Freres at 48, Avenue d'Ivre in the 13th, in one of Paris's Chinatowns.
Loaded with exotic ingredients at bargain prices. Mellon-sized pomegranates were a mere 1,20 each. If you're into coconut water or its very hot was...nothing is better then a fresh coconut. They drill a hole while you wait. Its an easy walk from Metro 7 Porte d'Ivre stop. Try it. You'll be surprised. The July epicerie map has other must-visit shops on it, Swedish, Lebanese, etc.
If you're a new letter subscriber a new bonus cherry jam watercolor awaits. 
Thank you for reading Parisbreakfast.  If you'd like to receive Parisbreakfast letters, maps and watercolors in your mailbox, stop by my shop.
Oh just come to Paris. The weather is glorious!

Monday, July 10, 2017

A taste of St. Malo and Cancale

Get out your bib and tucker in.
First eating stop in St. Malo is rue de l'Orme (Intro-Muros).
To the world-famous La Maison du Buerre at #9. They paddle the butter in front of you into these thick, rectangular bars. Then wrap them up, ready for you to take home. A big assortment of flavors is on offer including with algae.
Thank goodness they do not demo their famous salted butter caramels. I would have been sunk.
St. Malo is synonymous with salted butter caramel. Its a land mine field for some of us. You have been warned.
Directly across the street at #6, sits world-famous BREIZH CAFÉ. They are closed on Monday-Tuesday FYI. Does Bordier have a pipe pumping the butter straight into Breizh cafe?
Definitely get the daily 'formule'. A steal and not on offer in the Paris branches. Reason enough to go to St. Malo oui?
FABULOUS! Very crispy as all buckwheat or sarrasin galette should be.
Our neighbors had the new sushi-like galette rollups. I went to the Paris branch for smoked salmon rollups yesterday. YUM
Another don't-miss if you love fine food is Olivier Roellinger's spice shop. There is a Paris branch on rue St. Anne.
But why not enhale your vanille at the source.
Of course there is the carmelized St. Malo gateaux, Kouign-Amann. Basically you will be enhaling the scent of butter from one end of the town to the other.
There will be seafood or fruits de mer. This one at Cafe St. Malo. I think it would have been fresher eaten straight up at the poissoniere on rue de l'Orme. It did inspire me to take the bus next morning to Cancale for oysters on the rocks.
About 25 minutes from St. Malo, use the same bus ticket to the train station on the Cancale bus (1,30€)! I am guessing these women are oyster gatherers?
Walk down a steep hill to the unassuming marché de huitres.
Just 6 small stands, each a differecnt color. I don't know why I chose the pink one 😀.
These are 'flat' oysters. A dozen for 5,50€ sounds cheap, but there isn't a lot of meat to these babies.
Still its great fun to sit along the water, eat freshly-opened oysters and simply toss the shells onto the beach as you scrape off every morsel from both top and bottom shell. Do not forget to return your plate and knife the the oyster lady!
Just to get a lay of the land here's a view of the Cancale oyster beds from the hill above. The lighthouse is where the little marché is. There was more to explore but I ran back to catch the bus. Eat and run. Next time I'll get a second dozen. The new July Paris letter is on its way to you, a continuation of French seasonal fruits and veg. The Paris map will be done soon! Thank you for reading Parisbreakfast.  If you'd like to receive Parisbreakfast letters, maps and watercolors in your mailbox, stop by my shop.
Bonne journée!